Already one week of teaching has passed since my two weeks of travel through southern Thailand. I still remember the murmur of breaking waves outside my window, the crystalline hues of the Andaman Sea, the earnest conversations with individuals I previously had shared no history with. Though sometimes it feels more like a prior dream than past reality, it was very much real, and I have chosen portions of my journal entries to recount it.
Ferry Speedboat to Koh Tao
10/17/09
“My first image getting on the train was this: A pot-bellied African American, Jamaican t-shirt stretched taut across his burgeoning organ, bottle of Beer Chang in hand, bellowing out, “What the F&#@?” His name was Teddy, he worked for the U.S. Department of Defense, and he was going to be my seatmate for the next 10 hours.
The train ride however, was certainly not as dire as that. I soon became acquainted with a young group of Aussies, and we spent time till the early hours laughing, talking, and hanging out in the open space between the carriages..
On the speedboat to Koh Tao, an island well known for its fantastic diving:
Entering Koh Tao
10/17/09
..We came into port. Shafts of smooth volcanic stone shot up from the island as though outstretched to the sky. Eco-friendly bungalows needled out through the lush foliage, blending harmoniously with its pristine surroundings. Easily Koh Tao is the most beautiful island I’ve come across [so far].
Presently, I was able to find a spacious bungalow only a mere 10 meters from the beach for an astounding 300 B (10$) a night! It comes with a sweeping porch, hammock, and ideally, a desk. I think I might be in some sort of fantastical writing paradise..
10/19/09
My last day in Koh Tao was marvelous, I rented snorkeling gear and explored the island’s surrounding reefs, spooting fish of such electrically vibrant colors it almost seemed contrived. I also located a sunken cargo ship, about 15 meters in length, which definitely was a high point of the swim..
Traveling to Koh Lipe, a remote island far south in the Andaman Sea
Upon arriving in Hat Yai, I met Yanna, a Czech diving instructor and Anna and David, two good-natured Irish backpackers. We spent the evening walking around the marketplace and having a good time. Yanna adores durian (a notorious fruit that emits an odor akin to rotting meat), so o course she bought some and made us all try it- David almost vomited on the spot!
Sunset from my bungalow porch
10/22/09
Koh Lipe is breath-takingly gorgeous- crystalline wates, vast stretches of white sand beaches, the salt sweet breeze coarsing against one’s skin. I think I might spend the rest of my break here..
I must close with describing my bungalow, which I worked down to 250 B a night. The theme of the place is rasta, with bright, multicolored cannabis leaves adorning each structure. The room is small, and the advertised “personal toilet” is an outside utility connected to the room and of the most austere form, surrounded by a short tin fence for privacy. I suppose beggars, meaning budget traveling teachers in this case, cannot always be choosers!
10/23/09
The day was a full one. Alex (a friend I had made on the way to Koh Lipe) and I explored the island, stumbling across gorgeous coastlines yet to be marred by the aggressive development that has begun to ravage the island’s pristine spots..
Later on I played beach soccer with a lively group, meeting Moriseu, a friendly Italian chef on vacation, and his girlfriend Elainia, who is incredibly nice but hardly speaks a word of English- she just smiles when we’re talking, a very nice smile. Very cool people.
10/25/09
Today, myself and six friends rented a longtail boat for snorkeling. It was nice- the water was transparent and I was able to spot such creatures as the flute fish, clown fish, and even sea horses. One of the more interesting animals I caught sight of was a gnarly-looking scorpion fish; a sting from one of its vicious spines could send you into excruciating pain for several weeks.
Out For Snorkeling
The last stop we made was to an island inhabited by tribes of curious monkeys. They were quite bold, coming right up to me and greedily snatching peanuts from my hand, though fixing me with a wary stare all the while.
10/26/09
I finally caught a fish in my lifetime- and it was enormous. We rented a boat to take us out sea fishing, a worthy experience for any island endeavor. I enjoyed sea fishing, which consisted of lashing a massive pole onto the boat and letting it trail behind.
Shouting. We had been cruising for a good two hours when my pole began bending precariously. I began to reel whatever it was in, and this was no simple task. After several minutes of frenzied action, my forearms screaming in protest, it emerged from the water’s surface a fantastic mackerel approximately 1 meter in length!
Dinner that night was incredible. The manager of my accommodations, who had previously worked at a hotel restaurant in Bangkok for several years, prepared my fish for us, grilling fillets of it with garlic and lime juice over simmering red coals. Nine of us feasted that night, along with tasty fried rice and heaping bowls of steamed vegetables.
10/28/09
I spent my last day on Koh Lipe very unlike how I had envisioned it. Instead of renting a kayak and exploring Koh Adang (a nearby island which is entirely a national park), I chose to finish “Open Water”, a short story I’ve been thinking through for several months. Write I did- from 10 am directly after breakfast to 4:30 pm, not even stopping for lunch. But I’m finished, and the sense of accomplishment I experienced is enormous. Tomorrow I say my goodbyes to my newfound friends and make my way back to Bangkok, this time by plane
And made it back I did after the goodbyes were said, the salt-stained clothes stuffed back into my rucksack. It was a good break; I saw much and interacted with many individuals I hope to see again. Now only to wait one more month and December break is just around the not-all-that-distant corner!
